Chafer grubs: how to recognise and treat it
Pest
_02.jpg/960px-%D0%91%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%BE%D0%B7%D0%BD%D1%8F%D0%BA_(%D0%BB%D1%8F%D1%80%D0%B2%D0%B0_%D1%85%D1%80%D1%83%D1%89%D0%B0_%D1%82%D1%80%D0%B0%D0%B2%D0%BD%D0%B5%D0%B2%D0%BE%D0%B3%D0%BE)_02.jpg)
Symptoms
- Fat, C-shaped, creamy-white grubs with a brown head and three pairs of legs at the head end, in the soil around roots; up to 18–30 mm long depending on the species.
- Plants with eaten roots turn yellow, wilt or die; often nothing shows above ground until harvest.
- Potatoes, beetroot and other root crops have large, shallow, round holes.
- In lawns, yellowish patches and turf torn up by crows, magpies, badgers or foxes digging for the grubs, mostly from autumn to spring.
Organic treatment
- Collect and destroy the grubs as you dig and prepare the soil — they move back into the soil if left.
- Water in the nematode Heterorhabditis bacteriophora when the soil is moist and 12–20 °C; as a preventive, apply in July–September, following the supplier's instructions.
- Birds and other animals feed on the grubs; turning the soil exposes them.
Chemical treatment
- Insecticides against full-grown grubs in the garden are impractical and ineffective; rely on hand collection, cultivation and nematodes.
Reference information, not a guarantee. Read and follow the label of any product: dose, safety and the days to wait before harvest.
Prevention
- Dig or plough in late summer or early autumn to kill grubs and expose them to birds.
- Avoid planting vegetables where there was grass, corn, potatoes or an old strawberry bed the year before — grubs are worst in freshly dug-up lawn.
- Keep the garden weed-free (beetles prefer to lay eggs in well-covered soil) and well drained.
- Keep the vegetable plot away from plants the adult beetles favour, such as oaks, grapes and roses.
Plants it affects
Sources
Figures checked against these sources.